Les nymphes noires
Kosice est la deuxième ville de Slovaquie. En Hongrie, elle est indiquée sur les panneaux d’orientation comme Kassa (à prononcer Kocho). Rien là qui étonne un Belge… Mais Kassa fut pendant des siècles une ville hongroise. La Slovaquie tout entière faisait partie du Royaume de Hongrie, et comporte encore aujourd’hui une importante minorité hongroise. Le centre de la ville est fort beau. Il y a notamment une cathédrale gothique, et pour l’amour du fun, sur la place principale, une fontaine musicale, dont les jets accompagnent la moindre intonation d’un mouvement symphonique. Kosice est aussi une ville tsigane. Installés ici depuis le XVème siècle, ils sont plus de 6000 actuellement. Mais nous ne le savons pas encore. Nous n’irons donc pas au quartier Lunik IX, où la plupart d’entre eux se regroupent.
Quelques années plus tard, David veut rencontrer des musiciens roms, dans un café gantois où ils jouent. Il y va, pour apprendre que ces gens ont été transférés au Centre 127 bis, à Zaventem, où ils sont en attente d’expulsion vers… Kosice. Il apprend en outre que l’administration gantoise les a convoqués benoîtement « pour un complément de dossier », alors que le but était de les expulser. Un mouvement de protestation se met en marche, et plusieurs dizaines de personnes se retrouvent devant les grilles du 127 bis. Plusieurs rangs de barbelés entourent des bâtiments préfabriqués. La seule porte donne sur le tarmac de l’aéroport. En voyant cela, je pense à la « porte du non retour », à Ouidah, qui symbolise le départ des esclaves noirs devant la plage aveuglante où venaient les prendre les navires négriers. Des hommes, des femmes, des enfants nous font signe des fenêtres du premier étage. On essaie de leur parler, de les encourager. Ils auront au moins vu nos signaux. Devant nous, à cent mètres, plusieurs véhicules à pompe, immobiles, aux aguets. Ils se mettent en marche, répondant à un ordre inaudible, puis commencent à nous arroser. Bêtement, je déploie un parapluie, pour être immédiatement la cible d’un jet puissant. La force des jets d’eau augmente progressivement, finit par étouffer, par creuser le corps. On s’enfuit. Mais une information circule : la trahison de Gand va se répéter à Tirlemont. La date et l’heure nous sont connues.
Le surlendemain, nous sommes sur l’immense Grand-Place de Tirlemont, devant l’église gothique de Notre-Dame au Lac, et nous attendons. Nous voyons plusieurs groupes de quelques personnes, manifestement tsiganes, converger vers l’hôtel de ville. Nous nous interposons, essayons de convaincre ces gens du piège qui les attend. Ils ne comprennent pas. Il faut répéter, en utilisant toutes les langues envisageables, le flamand, le français, et bien sûr la romani. L’un d’eux comprend enfin, entreprend de tout expliquer aux autres. Finalement, ils repartent, en nous remerciant.
Le coup, qui avait réussi à Gand, a échoué à Tirlemont. Nous en sommes heureux. Mais l’histoire n’est pas finie. De Kosice, de Lunik IX, sinistre quartier faite de rames d’habitat dégradées où s’entassent des milliers de personnes, un père de famille courageux a décidé de protester, par voie légale, et attaque la Belgique en justice. La cause des Roms trahis par l’administration belge ira devant la Cour Européenne de Strasbourg, et la Belgique sera condamnée à payer des dommages et intérêts aux expulsés de Gand. Cela ne l’empêchera pas de recommencer.
Revenons : pour le moment, nous sommes à Kosice, devant la cathédrale, et nous prenons une tasse de café slovaque en utilisant les couronnes fraîchement sorties d’un terminal bancaire. Le prix nous semble anormalement élevé. C’est une erreur, la couronne vaut ce que valait un franc belge, ou même un peu moins. Tout est très bon marché en Slovaquie. Ce pays vient de se séparer en douceur de la République Tchèque. Il reste très marqué par plus de quarante années de communisme. Il n’est pas encore habitué, ni à l’indépendance, ni à l’économie libérale, qu’il explore timidement. De charmantes naïvetés nous amusent. Par exemple, les agences bancaires sont d’accès libre et commode, par comparaison aux banques de l’époque communiste où il fallait multiplier les formalités. Mais des écriteaux, à la porte, indiquent gentiment par des icones tout ce qu’on ne peut y faire, par exemple entrer avec un cornet de glace (interdit) ou avec un révolver (également interdit). Dans les cafés et les restaurants, on reçoit le compte de tout ce qu’on a consommé. Quoi de plus normal ? Mais on a le compte précis du nombre de morceaux de sucre, du poids du beurre qu’on a mis sur sa tartine, et bien sûr, du nombre de tranches de pain. Moins drôle : ma carte bancaire sera perdue dans un Bankomat, en quittant Kosice. Il ne nous reste que la carte Visa.
Le projet, c’est d’escalader les pentes boisées des Carpates jusqu’à la région, entre Presov et Poprad, où vivent la plupart des Roms de Slovaquie. Cette région est d’une beauté surprenante : moins haute que les Alpes, elle est beaucoup plus sauvage, forestière, avec des vues harmonieuses et désertes. On se sent parfois en Ardenne, parfois dans les Pyrénées, parfois dans la forêt de Bohême, parfois dans la steppe. De grands châteaux, même pas ruinés, gardent les cols et surplombent les vallées. David a lu quelque part le nom d’un village rom : Spisske Zvertek. C’est en suivant cette piste que nous arrivons, le soir, dans la ville de Spisska Nova Ves. Partout, nous demandons la direction de « Spisske Zvertek », qui ne devrait pas être loin. Pourtant, personne ne semble le connaître.
Nous nous trouvons, sans le savoir, au cœur d’un ancien « comitat », celui de Spis, qui contient les plus beaux sites naturels et les plus grandes beautés architecturales de la Slovaquie. Cet endroit fut connu dès le moyen-âge comme site minier, colonisé à ce titre par des Allemands, mais aussi par des Ruthènes, des Polonais, des Juifs, des Hongrois et des Tsiganes. Chaque peuple y laisse sa marque. Un peu au hasard, nous repartons vers l’Est, vers Spisske Vlachy, dont le nom évoque pour nous les Roms vlach. Notre attention est attirée par l’existence de chemins muletiers qui, parfois, sont parallèles à la route carrossable : nous nous demandons à quoi ils peuvent servir. Nous le saurons bientôt. Un peu avant le village de Bystrany, nous tombons sur une véritable ville tsigane, un immense bidonville de plusieurs centaines de maisons très pauvres. Les chemins muletiers en partent, dans toutes les directions. Des gens à pied, des charrettes les parcourent. Les Roms ont leur propre réseau routier, distinct de celui des gadjés. Cette véritable ségrégation vient de loin, et va loin aussi. Un simple coup d’œil permet de voir que deux populations vivent au même endroit sans se mélanger, et possèdent chacune leur économie, lesquelles se rejoignent seulement de temps en temps, à des endroits précis. Il serait passionnant d’entrer en contact avec ces gens, mais comment faire ? Il nous faudrait une introduction. Nous n’en avons pas. David tente le coup : voyant quelques enfants qui jouent, à quelques dizaines de mètres de nous, en contrebas de la route, il les hèle en romani. Son espoir est que le seul usage de la langue soit une introduction suffisante. Hélas, ce n’est pas le cas, et la réponse qu’il reçoit est sans équivoque : « Za tar, dav ande bulo ». En français, cela donne : « Va-t-en, je t’encule ». On n’insiste pas. Bystrany, un peu plus loin, est une jolie petite ville slovaque. Il n’empêche que son nom semble provenir d’un mot tsigane, dont la racine signifie « oublier ».
Un peu déçus, nous faisons demi-tour et reprenons vers l’Ouest, par la grand-route de Presov à Poprad. Notre but est d’aller visiter la Murànska Planina, une étendue steppique où vivent des troupeaux de chevaux sauvages. Un peu avant Poprad, nous traversons un village nomme Spissky Stvrtok, où nous reconnaissons brusquement le « Zvertek » vainement cherché la veille. Stvrtok, en slovaque, signifie jeudi. Le nom veut dire que le marché du village avait lieu, autrefois, le jeudi. Le jeudi du pays de Spis. De même, en Slovénie, Murska Sobota veut dire le samedi de la Mura.
En continuant vers Poprad, sur une petite route secondaire, nous croisons à Janovce une autre agglomération tsigane, plus grande encore, peut-être, que celle de Bystrany. Mais nous n’avons plus envie de nous faire enc…
Plus tard, sur la route déserte de Muran, au milieu d’une forêt dense. Il y a là deux Roms. Ils semblent venir de nulle part, car nous n’avons vu aucune habitation, depuis longtemps. Ils ont quelque chose à vendre : des myrtilles et des champignons, tout frais cueillis sous les arbres. La tentation est forte. Je m’arrête. Les myrtilles font délicieusement notre affaire. On en prend un gros sachet. Sans nous en rendre compte, nous sommes montés en altitude. Cette route est un faux plat. Le plateau de Muran est le lieu de partage des eaux, entre la mer du Nord et la mer Noire. Il y a même une rivière qui remonte vers le Nord, et va se jeter, sans doute par la Vistule, dans la mer Baltique. Nous sommes à ce moment à plus de mille mètres. C’est magnifique, mais il est trop tard pour visiter longuement les lieux. Mieux vaut chercher un havre pour la nuit, et y revenir demain. David, qui a pris le volant, bifurque vers la ville de Revuca. C’est maintenant une route de montagne, sinueuse, qui descend vers la vallée et longe un petit torrent presque à sec, dont le lit est encombré de rochers et de grosses pierres. Une brume monte du sol. Nous roulons lentement, et prudemment, nous semble-t-il. Soudain, un virage assez brusque vers la gauche : la route humide penche vers l’extérieur, des graviers roulent sous les pneus, la voiture dérape. La remorque, qui contient tous nos bagages, pousse l’arrière de la voiture vers la droite. Nous tombons de plusieurs mètres, et nous nous écrasons dans le lit du torrent.
Suspendus par la ceinture de sécurité, la tête en bas : cela ne pourrait pas durer longtemps, mais c’est confortable. Ni l’un, ni l’autre, n’avons senti le moindre choc, sauf celui de la tôle du toit de la voiture qui s’est enfoncé, et qui réduit un peu notre espace vital. Il faut d’abord arrêter le moteur. Voilà. Et puis nous dégager, ce qui prend plus de temps. Se remettre sur ses pieds, ou plutôt sur les genoux, se déplacer ainsi vers les portières et les ouvrir, ça n’a l’air de rien mais c’est une étrange expérience, qui évoque celle des astronautes dans une navette : tous les repères sont inversés. Et partout, le jus des myrtilles écrasées.
« Crachats sucrés des nymphes noires » dit David, citant Rimbaud.
Des voix nous appellent. Plusieurs voitures se sont arrêtées. Leurs occupants ne peuvent pas croire que nous soyons indemnes. Ils insistent : il y a sûrement une troisième victime, inconsciente, morte peut-être. Ce sont, pour la plupart, des jeunes gens qui font, non loin de là, un camp de désintoxication à la drogue. Ils sont vraiment charmants, efficaces et réconfortants. Deux hommes plus âgés se sont arrêtés également : un diplomate et un ingénieur slovaques, qui nous aideront également beaucoup. Aucun d’eux ne ménage son temps. Le diplomate parle français et italien, c’est précieux dans ce pays. Il nous conduira dans sa voiture jusqu’à la ville de Revuca. L’ingénieur nous aidera dans les démarches. Mais d’abord, il faut prévenir Sylvie, ce que je fais du village de Muran, ainsi que Slovak Assistance. A mon retour, je vois des policiers. Ils nous font souffler dans le ballon, David et moi : en Slovaquie, la moindre consommation d’alcool est interdite à qui conduit. En fin de compte, le policier nous condamne à une amende : nous avons contrevenu à l’article 15 du Code de circulation slovaque qui stipule qu’en cas de pluie, il faut ralentir. Mais nous roulions à 50 km/h ! Trop vite quand même : de toute façon, il faut conduire de façon à garder le contrôle du véhicule. A ce compte, évidemment, toute victime d’un accident peut être condamné. De l’état de la route, il n’en sera pas question. L’amende n’est toutefois pas trop élevée : 500 couronnes, (soit 12,50 euros).
Un garagiste local utilisera un treuil pour sortir la voiture du lit du torrent, et la conduira dans un dépôt de Revuca. Le sinistre sera total. Quant à nous, nous logerons dans le seul hôtel du lieu, qui porte le beau nom de Pyramida. On n’y parle rigoureusement que le slovaque. Erreur : on y parle aussi un peu de russe, c’est le souvenir d’une autre époque. En fait, nous ne sommes pas loin de l’Ukraine subcarpatique, ancien territoire tchécoslovaque annexé par Staline, donc, pas loin du tout de l’ex-URSS. C’est là, à la frontière, dans la ville d’Oujgorod, que le premier ministre de Tchécoslovaquie Dubcek, qui était slovaque, rencontra Brejnev pour des « entretiens de réconciliation », préludes à l’invasion de juillet 1968. Donc, mes quelques mots de russe nous seront extrêmement utiles.
L’ambiance, évidemment, est un peu sombre. Mais tout compte fait, nous ne le prenons pas trop mal. Nous sommes heureux, d’abord, de nous en être si bien tirés, avec cette sorte d’euphorie qui accompagne certaines catastrophes. Le sentiment de ne pas être perdus, quand tout est perdu. Peut-être celui de François Ier après Pavie ?… Le principal souci, c’est que notre voyage est fini. Que nos projets sont à l’eau. Qu’il va falloir annuler le rendez-vous avec Maria, prévu à Innsbruck ou à Vienne. Je me souviens d’un parcours, à pied, entre l’hôtel et le dépôt de Slovak Assistance : il faisait terriblement chaud. Je rôtissais comme autrefois, sur les trottoirs de Lima, en été. J’étais aussi pédestre et aussi démuni qu’en ce temps-là.
Mais le cerveau va vite, quand il le faut, et nous reconstruisons le projet autrement : ne pas renoncer ; dès que possible, quitter Revuca par les transports en commun, gagner Bratislava, puis Vienne, y louer une voiture, et reprendre la route de la Slovénie en allant chercher Maria quelque part, là où elle voudra.
A 5h30, nous prenons le bus. Nous abandonnons la voiture, et la presque totalité des bagages dans une remorque cabossée, qui ne ferme plus. Nos sacs à dos sont cependant bien lourds. Le trajet va durer toute la journée, comporter deux changements de bus et des arrêts innombrables. La fatigue nous écrase. C’eut été une bonne occasion, pourtant, de sentir l’ambiance du pays, de parler aux gens. Mais après la tension subie, l’épreuve est physique. La supporter est la seule chose que nous puissions nous imposer. Du trajet, surnagent quelques images vagues, les forêts, le piémont des Carpates, la plaine, aux approches de la capitale. Et quelques noms : Brezno, Banska Bystrica, Zvolen… Enfin, après huit heures de route, nous arrivons à Bratislava, ancienne Poszony, qui fut capitale de la Hongrie royale quand les deux tiers du pays eurent été conquis par les Turcs. Grande ville sur le Danube qui nous semble presque bleu, mais que nous avons à peine le temps d’entrevoir. Nous nous approchons de l’impressionnant château, nous traversons la grand-place baroque, et puis nous nous engouffrons dans la gare pour attraper le train de Vienne.
Balcon de cendres
Vienne n’est pas loin : à peine 60 km. Nous y sommes quand le soir tombe. C’est une ville chère, et nous n’avons pas beaucoup de sous. Dès lors, je cherche sur un dépliant touristique l’hôtel le moins cher de toute la ville, et je trouve ! C’est tout près. Nous tournons en rond autour d’une énorme place, avant de nous décider à demander notre chemin. La réponse fuse : « Aber, das ist kein richtig hotel ! ». Kein richtig, je t’en fiche, on en a vu d’autres ! On nous indique une petite rue, dont la vue nous avait échappé. C’est, en effet, une fort petite rue, et d’aspect plutôt louche, où des prostituées se promènent sur le trottoir. Dans l’hôtel, un long échalas aux cheveux gris, au nez tordu, nous regarde, étrangement soupçonneux. Il commence par demander nos papiers. Est-ce encore la règle en Autriche ? Il les examine, il téléphone – à qui ? à la police ?, puis il nous les rend d’un air dégoûté. Nous obtenons une chambre à peu près propre, qui donne sur la rue. Et là, David, qui veut fumer, allume sa cigarette, ouvre la fenêtre, et va s’en servir comme cendrier, quand il aperçoit, in extremis, un décolleté largement ouvert pour recevoir la cendre…
A part cela, nous passerons une excellente nuit. Le regard en coin du tenancier, qui nous prend sans doute pour des pervers comme lui-même, ne nous gênera plus longtemps. Nous pouvons alors louer une Polo rouge, et recontacter Maria. Un coup d’œil sur la carte montre que le meilleur lieu de rendez-vous est Trieste, et cela lui convient. Pour y aller, le meilleur chemin passe par la Slovénie ! Un petit tour, quand même, dans les rues de Vienne, et un peu de repos, sous le soleil, dans le parc de Schönbrünn. La ville mérite mieux que cela, mais le temps presse.
La route de Vienne à Trieste ne passe pas loin de Murska Sobota. Nous faisons donc un petit détour pour connaître la date exacte de la Ciganska Noč, manger et repartir.
Avant la nuit, nous sommes à Trieste, dans le grand port, l’unique port de l’ancien Empire. Ville étrange, à la fois italienne, slovène, autrichienne, hongroise. Ville surréelle, indéfinissable. Les bâtiments du port sont néoclassiques, les docks sévères, sobres et rectilignes, un peu tristes. Ce sont ceux d’un monde disparu. Un peu plus loin, sur la hauteur, se dresse le palais de Charlotte et de Maximilien, tout blanc, décoré comme une pâtisserie, et c’est comme si ce monde existait encore. Toujours plus loin, à Duino, règne le souvenir de Rainer Maria Rilke, invisible mais présent. Deuils et fantômes. Avec tout cela, il n’est pas étonnant qu’Italo Svevo soit triestin, et que cette ville secrète le surréalisme tout autant, mieux peut-être, que notre propre pays. En tout cas, dans le nôtre comme ici, on est dans un entre-lieu, voire dans un non-lieu. Mentalement, je dis bonjour à Franco Basaglia, qui essaya, ici même, de rendre vivable la vie des fous dans l’espace social. Est-ce un paradoxe ? Pas tellement : l’espace social rend fou, partout. La folie sociale peut être mieux supportable là où elle s’affiche. Il n’empêche : jusqu’à Basaglia, en enfermant ces gens dans des lieux abominables, on y confortait la folie sociale, qui ne pouvait que croître. Une fois sortis, bien sûr, il fallait encore qu’ils soient aidés à manger, et à respirer. Basaglia l’avait compris, ainsi que quelques autres psys, hélas peu nombreux. Là où ils n’étaient pas, les fous n’ont fait que passer de l’enfermement des murs à celui de l’abandon.
Des montagnes des Hautes Carpates à la côte dalmate, on change cinq fois de monde. Il est peu de parcours plus troublants. La Slovaquie rurale est un pays du bout du monde, encore fort marqué par les habitudes communistes, et qui se cherche sans savoir où il va. Les gens sont réservés, plutôt froids, jusqu’à ce qu’un détail brise la glace et qu’on les trouve alors chaleureux et solidaires. A Vienne, les ors et les stucs, l’ambiance décadente, le goût des plaisirs, le souvenir obsédant de l’époque nazie. Puis le Prekmurje, puis le plateau calcaire du Karst, pleins de trous et de grottes. Enfin, la lumière dorée d’un crépuscule sur la mer, et la côte d’Istrie qui se perd, verte et blanche, jusqu’à l’horizon.
David retrouve enfin Maria. Je les laisse au plaisir de se revoir, et vais saluer Rilke à Duino, en passant par-dessous le palais Miramar. Maria est prête à nous accompagner pour un nouveau tour de roue en Slovénie, vers ces Tsiganes qu’elle connaît bien, et dont elle ne se lasse pas. Durant l’année scolaire, elle donne cours en italien aux enfants sintis, mais ses cours font une large place à leur propre langue, et à des traditions dont elle cherche à leur rendre la fierté. Ses vacances, elle les passe en partie à Murska Sobota, avec d’autres enfants, qui ont une langue et des traditions voisines. Ce qui lui permet de comparer. Les Sintis proviennent de la première vague, celle qui est entrée en Europe au XVème siècle. Ils sont proches des Manouches d’Europe du Nord. Leur langue est une romani truffée de mots allemands et italiens. Les Roms sont de la seconde vague, longtemps établie en Grêce, puis bloquée en Roumanie et dans les Balkans. A Trento, Maria s’est liée à un poète et musicien sinti, Vittorio Meyer Pasquale, dit Spatzo, que, grâce à elle, nous connaîtrons plus tard. Maria possède, au plus haut point, le sens du contact et de la sympathie. Elle parle à chacun, avec naturel et sincérité, d’une façon qui permet à chacun de se sentir important. Elle plante sa tente à côté de la nôtre, au camping Obelisco. Elle écrira, en italien, quelques lignes journalières dans notre carnet de voyage.
Nous repartons dès le lendemain, car la date de la Nuit tsigane approche. Nous retrouvons Moravske Toplice, et nous dressons les tentes un peu en-dehors de la masse des campeurs, dans un endroit paisible et sympathique. La nuit, éclate un orage terrible. Notre tente se déchire, l’eau y pénètre, et nous sommes obligés de nous serrer à trois dans celle de Maria.
La nuit tsigane
Belmura est un quadrilatère blanc, d’aspect sévère. Quatre tours d’angle et une jolie porte au linteau peint et sculpté rompent cependant la monotonie de la façade. La grande cour centrale, habituellement déserte, est aujourd’hui encombrée d’un podium bordé d’immenses baffles, et peuplée de chaises qui entourent une piste de danse, vide. On annonce plusieurs groupes locaux, et le plus connu de tous les groupes roms slovènes, Amala. Les gens arrivent, nombreux. Il y a parmi eux quelques blonds aux yeux bleus, mais il y a surtout les Roms des environs : ceux de Černelavci, ceux de Beltinci, ceux de Pušča, ceux de Crencovci. Quelques-uns même viennent du Nord de la province, près de Grad.
La vraie musique des Roms n’a presque rien à voir avec ce qu’on identifie comme musique tsigane. C’est une musique où le rythme tient la grande place, et qui sert à danser. Il est impossible d’y résister, surtout quand on est en groupe. On y entend des violons, des guitares, de l’accordéon, mais surtout des claquements des mains, des talonnades, et le ballet des cuillers contre les doigts. La langue claque aussi, et des bruits sourds, dont on se demande d’abord d’où ils viennent et qui les émet, viennent scander les contretemps. C’est une musique, aussi, qui sert à pleurer. Les paroles disent la douleur amoureuse, la tristesse de la séparation, la folie des hommes, la persécution. Mais la vie continue, on se moque de soi-même, de ses faiblesses, de son ivrognerie, du manque d’argent, et même de l’amour qui revient. Les sentiments se mêlent et tourbillonnent sans fin. Tout à coup, le silence : un silence qui fait partie de la mélodie, un silence qui vient parce qu’il y a trop d’émotion, qu’elle déborde, qu’elle monte aux lèvres, qu’elle va vous étouffer. Dès qu’ils ont repris leur souffle, le chanteur ou la chanteuse reprennent, redisent quelques syllabes, doucement. Par cette redite, on sort du tourbillon, on enfonce en soi la gravité des choses, on la contemple, et on l’assume.
C’était cela que nous entendions. Mais c’était aussi la fête, et ce fut tout de suite la danse irrésistible. Les Roms, les gadjés, les jeunes, les vieux, tous ensemble, seuls, ou en couples de hasard. J’ai dansé longtemps avec une femme de mon âge, petite, mince, agile, dont David m’a dit après-coup : « c’est elle ». Elle ? Oui, souviens-toi « de cette bête enlisée au potager de la folle jardinière ». Je ne sais pas pourquoi, lors d’un séjour précédent, David et Maria avaient appelé ainsi cette gentille dame: la folle jardinière. Sans la moindre malveillance, sûrement. Probablement avec une bienveillance particulière. En attendant, de vous à moi, ce surnom lui restera. Quant à la bête enlisée, on le sait, c’était un cheval à bascule.
Mais l’orage gronde. Des trombes d’eau inondent la cour, risquant de mettre le feu à l’installation d’Amala. La musique s’arrête. Les danseurs se mettent à l’abri sous les arcades, dans les galeries qui bordent les quatre ailes du château. On se rend vite compte que le concert ne reprendra pas. La plupart des gens s’en vont alors, par petits groupes. Restent avec nous quelques familles et des jeunes de Pušča, des ados que David et Maria ont connu enfants. Il y a là Romeo, séducteur au visage ingrat, aux yeux brillants, chanteur à la voix de mue. Il y a la beauté calme de Loredana. Il y a Ždenko, qui reconnaît Maria et se jette dans ses bras. Les autres se moquent parfois de lui, parce qu’à quinze ans, il ressemble encore à un enfant. Il s’en venge en affichant ses cheveux teints en rouge. Ždenko est peut-être le plus malin, en tout cas le plus mobile d’entre eux. Il y a la famille Baranja, que nous connaissons déjà, et qui s’en ira vite. Et toute la famille de Ždenko, son père, un peu ivre, aux yeux rouges, soucieux de sauvegarder une apparence d’autorité, et sa mère, dans toute la beauté sévère et sauvage de la cinquantaine, mince, digne, attentive à chacun et à chacune de sa foule d’enfants. Une jeune femme, seule, isolée, fait des œillades à tout le monde. Elle fait pitié, parce qu’on ne la prend vraiment pas au sérieux. « To išče moža », dit-on. Elle cherche un mari. Romeo chante un peu, et puis il n’y a plus qu’à être présents les uns aux autres. Maria écrira, en italien, dans le journal de bord : « Sans musique aussi, les émotions sont fortes, et les regards plus forts que les paroles, les souvenirs ressurgissent par bouffées et font résonner le bonheur ». Loredana tient un enfant dans ses bras. Son grand-père dit à David que c’est le sien, d’ailleurs, elle en a encore trois autres. C’est impossible, pense David, qui l’a connue toute gamine, quatre ans auparavant. Il devinera, plus tard, que le grand-père lui avait menti pour la préserver des regards du gadjo.
Le village apprivoisé
Pušča, c’est « le village que David a apprivoisé », dit Maria. Il nous y reste quelques visites à faire, ou à rendre, comme on disait mieux autrefois, puisque cela suppose qu’on en ait reçu, préalablement, quelque chose ; ce qui est, effectivement, le cas. Le lendemain de la Ciganska Noč, nous y allons à pied, par la petite route qui traverse les champs de maïs. Le nom du village signifie « la plaine », et il est mérité. C’est, d’ailleurs, le même mot que « puszta » en hongrois. Nous allons d’abord au café local, pour sentir l’ambiance, et puis, comme elle est bonne, nous allons chez les Sarkezy, c’est-à-dire chez les parents de Zdenko. Serons-nous bien reçus ? Après l’euphorie un peu arrosée de la veille, seront-ils disposés à nous revoir ? Je me pose la question. Homme de peu de foi ! La joie, l’amitié, l’accueil n’ont pas besoin d’arrosage. C’est tout de suite la fête. Les enfants nous font un concert de chants en romani, en slovène, et nous chantons aussi. Le petit enregistreur miraculeux de David prend tout cela. On se raconte, on se photographie. On est plus que des frères. Je suis tellement ému que je verse une larme de bonheur.
Bystrany, Pušča : les deux extrêmes de la relation entre Roms et gadjés. Là, la méfiance totale, même de loin ; ici, l’accueil inconditionnel, incomparable. Bien sûr, dans le premier cas il ne s’agissait que d’un premier contact, en l’occurrence raté, mais rien ne nous permettait d’espérer mieux. Dans le second, il s’agit d’une amitié longuement préparée, et de retrouvailles. Il n’empêche : cette relation s’inscrit toujours dans un cadre historique fait d’incompréhension, d’hostilité, de persécution, presque toujours à sens unique. La méfiance est normale, de la part des Roms. Ils ont pris l’habitude de ruser, et parfois ils en profitent. A Bystrany, ils vivent dans un monde parallèle qui est le leur : leur village, leurs chemins de terre. Ils sont chez eux. Ils n’ont pas besoin de ruser, mais ils défendent leur territoire. A Pušča, ils sont en train de réussir l’impossible : leur village n’est plus un bidonville, et pourtant ils sont, eux aussi, chez eux. Leur monde et celui des gadjés sont en contact permanent, et pourtant, ils peuvent conserver leur langue et leurs traditions. Ils souffrent encore de discriminations, mais ils savent qu’ils ont des amis, qu’ils ont des droits, que ces droits sont respectés. Ils n’ont pas besoin de ruser. Ils peuvent ouvrir leur cœur.
Nous irons encore chez les Baranja. Bien reçus, là aussi, nous verrons combien la nostalgie du voyage demeure présente chez ces Roms sédentarisés, obligés par les exigences de la société d’aujourd’hui de renoncer à la belle vie nomade. Un moment, on oublie ces exigences, on rêve : « la Belgique est un bon pays, dit-on, on pourrait venir un jour vous y rendre visite ». Ce serait une joie. Mais il n’y aura pas de visite. Les verdines ont laissé leurs roues aux murs des maisons de brique, aux tonnelles où les lianes des vignes les enserrent, ou dans les jardins où elles servent de support aux pots de géraniums. Quant aux chevaux, il y a longtemps qu’ils se sont embourbés, dans le potager de la folle jardinière…
Ce voyage, ces rencontres avec les Roms ne furent pas les seuls. Mais c’est toujours la même chose, on ne peut pas se débarrasser de l’histoire : on reste séparé par une barrière invisible, qui ne se brise que dans des circonstances rarissimes, et par là, extraordinaires. Nous savons devoir accepter les déceptions fréquentes, apprécier les moments improbables. Et garder à l’esprit que nous ne serons jamais, dans le meilleur des cas, qu’une cinquième roue à la verdine.
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